Tetrapeptide-30

The special physiological properties of the skin around the eyes impose far higher requirements on all eye care ingredients than ordinary facial products, and the physicochemical properties and mode of action of tetrapeptide-30 perfectly meet these stringent standards. Firstly, in terms of penetration performance, the molecular weight is only 500.6 g/mol, far below the critical threshold for skin penetration of 600 Da. At the same time, it has excellent hydrophilicity and can easily penetrate the extremely thin stratum corneum around the eyes without the need for strong penetration enhancers, directly reaching the superficial layer of the dermis to exert its effect, completely avoiding the problem of ordinary macromolecular active peptides being unable to penetrate the skin around the eyes and only staying on the surface.

Secondly, from the perspective of safety, as a synthetic oligopeptide, it does not have the common irritation problems of traditional eye anti-aging ingredients such as retinol and high concentration VC. Even if it accidentally comes into contact with the mucous membrane around the eyes, it will not cause strong discomfort such as stinging, redness, tears, etc., fully meeting the low irritation requirements of eye care products. According to relevant skin irritation test data, in the human patch test, applying high concentration formulations to sensitive skin areas around the eyes for 72 consecutive hours did not result in any adverse reactions such as erythema, edema, itching, etc.

This safety performance makes it suitable for long-term use by all skin types, including sensitive skin and barrier damaged skin.

From the perspective of the adaptability of the mechanism of action, traditional eye anti-aging ingredients mostly focus on promoting the synthesis of type I and III collagen, improving static fine lines, but cannot cover the high proportion of pigment type aging problems in ocular aging. At the same time, it has the triple functions of upstream signal regulation, tyrosinase expression inhibition, and inflammatory factor blockade, which can directly intervene in pigment production and improve chronic inflammation around the eyes. It fills the functional gap of traditional eye anti-aging formulas from the root and constructs a complete eye care system of "anti-aging+brightening+soothing".

(1) Root intervention for vascular and pigmented compound dark circles
Dark circles under the eyes are the most common manifestation of aging around the eyes, with the highest proportion in the Asian population being the combination of vascular and pigmented dark circles. The formation mechanism of such dark circles is very complicated: on the one hand, the skin around the eyes is thin, and the color of the subcutaneous capillaries can easily be seen to form a cyan background; on the other hand, long-term stay up late, rubbing around the eyes, ultraviolet radiation and other stimuli will induce chronic inflammation of the skin around the eyes, continue to stimulate the activation of melanocytes, and a large amount of melanin will be deposited in the periocular dermis.

Finally, a dark brown pigment layer will be superimposed on the cyan background of the blood vessels to form a "cyan brown intertwined" stubborn dark circles. Ordinary moisturizing eye creams and concealer products cannot be improved from the root.

Tetrapeptide-30 has demonstrated unique advantages in improving this type of compound dark circles. It can inhibit the release of inflammatory factors such as IL-6 and TNF - α in a dose-dependent manner, first improving the chronic low-grade inflammatory state around the eyes, reducing inflammation induced capillary dilation, and naturally reducing the translucency of blood vessels around the eyes, thus reducing the bluish black tone of dark circles from the background color level; At the same time, it can inhibit the gene expression of POMC and α - MSH upstream, block the excessive activation of melanocytes around the eyes by inflammatory signals.

Reduce the excessive production of melanin around the eyes from the root, gradually metabolize the pigments already deposited in the dermis layer, and ultimately achieve the dual effect of "fading of blue background color+fading of brown pigment". Long term clinical observation data shows that continuous use of eye care products containing this substance for 8 weeks can reduce the severity score of compound dark circles in subjects by more than 40%, significantly improve the overall skin tone uniformity around the eyes, and completely eliminate the pain points that are easily irritated around the eyes when traditional whitening ingredients improve dark circles.

(2) Sunscreen around the eyes and long-term friction induced pigmentation reduction

The eye area is a high-risk zone for facial UV exposure, and many people often neglect this area when applying sunscreen.

Long term UV exposure can form well-defined spot like sunspots around the eyes. At the same time, wearing frame glasses for a long time, repeatedly rubbing the eye area, and rubbing the legs of heavy frame glasses for a long time can all induce local frictional pigmentation around the eyes. These pigmentation problems can make the eye area appear dull and dirty, appearing 5-10 years older than peers.

Traditional spot lightening ingredients are mostly highly irritating and can easily cause skin redness, stinging, and even worsen pigmentation when used directly around the eyes. However, their high safety allows them to directly act on such pigmentation problems around the eyes. It reduces melanin synthesis in the eye area from the source by inhibiting the gene expression of tyrosinase, while blocking friction and UV induced inflammatory signals, avoiding further aggravation of pigmentation problems. After continuous use for 12 weeks, the color depth of sun spots around the eyes can be significantly reduced.

And the local dullness caused by friction will gradually disappear, allowing the skin around the eyes to return to a uniform and transparent state.

(3) Anti blackening after eye surgery and pigment maintenance after medical art

With the popularization of eye medical beauty, more and more people choose to improve fine lines and dark circles around the eyes through projects such as photon rejuvenation and dot matrix laser. However, the special nature of the skin around the eyes determines that there is a high risk of temporary damage to the barrier after surgery, which can lead to inflammation and pigmentation, commonly known as "postoperative anti blackening". Once such anti blackening problems occur, the difficulty of improvement is much higher than that of ordinary pigmentation, and may even leave long-term dark marks.

The ideal active ingredient for postoperative maintenance of eye area medical art, it can not only inhibit the release of inflammatory factors, quickly relieve the heat damage of eye area skin caused by photoelectric projects, reduce postoperative redness and burning sensation, but also block the activation of melanocytes induced by postoperative inflammation from the signal level, fundamentally reducing the risk of eye area postoperative blackening. At present, many legitimate medical beauty institutions in China include eye repair products containing the substance in their postoperative maintenance plans for projects such as black gold superphotons and gold microneedles around the eyes. This helps consumers safely consolidate the effect after the project and avoid adverse reactions such as blackening and color fading. Relevant clinical application data shows that after combining with postoperative maintenance plans, the postoperative blackening rate of eye photoelectric projects can be reduced from 27% to below 8%.

(1) Improve the yellowing of skin around the eyes induced by photoaging

The photoaging caused by long-term ultraviolet radiation is the core cause of overall aging around the eyes. With the continuous accumulation of photodamage, the metabolic capacity of the skin around the eyes continues to decline, the rate of melanin metabolism slows down significantly, and the collagen in the dermis layer continues to be lost. Eventually, the eye area will present an unhealthy yellow brown color, commonly known as "heavy yellow air around the eyes". This overall dull skin tone will make the eye area look tired and old, even without obvious fine lines, giving people the impression of aging.

In this scenario, tetrapeptide-30 can play a long-term nourishing role by continuously regulating the tyrosinase levels in the skin around the eyes. Returning the already disordered melanin production rate to normal physiological levels, while improving the chronic photodamage inflammation around the eyes, gradually metabolizing the accumulated pigments. After 16 weeks of continuous use, the yellowish brown dullness around the eyes can be significantly improved, and the skin around the eyes can regain a transparent and glossy appearance. This anti-aging effect achieved at the skin color level cannot be achieved by traditional anti-aging ingredients that only promote collagen synthesis.

(2) Combining classic anti-aging peptides to achieve dual improvement of fine lines and pigments

In the actual development of eye anti-aging formulas, classic anti-aging peptides such as acetyl hexapeptide-8 and palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 are often compounded to form a synergistic and complete anti-aging system. Acetyl hexapeptide-8 can improve dynamic facial expression patterns around the eyes by inhibiting neurotransmitter release, while palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 can directly promote the synthesis of type I and III collagen, fill static fine lines around the eyes, and improve pigmentation around the eyes. After the combination of the three, it can not only solve the problem of line aging around the eyes, but also solve the problem of pigment aging around the eyes, achieving the triple effect of "lightening lines+brightening+soothing", which is more than 60% higher than the comprehensive anti-aging effect of single ingredient eye anti-aging products.

This compound formula completely avoids the irritant problems of traditional strong anti-aging ingredients, does not require tolerance, and can be used for a long time by sensitive skin groups. It has become the core formula logic of many high-end mild eye creams, especially suitable for people over 30 years old who 

also have fine lines and dark pigmentation around the eyes. It achieves comprehensive anti-aging effects around the eyes without irritating fragile skin around the eyes.

(3) Improve the linkage between dry lines and dullness induced by long-term dryness around the eyes

Many people are exposed to dry environments such as air-conditioned rooms for a long time, making it easy for the skin around the eyes to be dehydrated.

Continuous dryness can damage the already fragile skin barrier around the eyes, induce mild chronic inflammation, and lead to the linkage problem of deepening dry lines and darkening skin tone. Ordinary moisturizing eye creams can only temporarily alleviate dryness and cannot break the vicious cycle of "dryness barrier damage inflammation dry lines+darkening".

Its anti-inflammatory properties can directly break this cycle by reducing mild inflammation around the eyes, helping the damaged eye barrier to gradually self repair, and blocking inflammation induced pigmentation from the root. This allows the skin around the eyes to restore a hydrated state while simultaneously improving dullness, ultimately achieving a dual effect of reducing dry lines and brightening skin tone. This regulation from the skin microenvironment level can better solve the aging problem caused by dryness around the eyes from the root than simply moisturizing and hydrating.

In the daily use of essence eye products, tetrapeptide-30 is often added to the eye brightening essence. This kind of product has a fresh texture and fast penetration speed, which can deliver the active ingredients to the periocular dermis in a short time. It is suitable for people with stubborn dark circles and periocular dullness. Adhere to the use in the morning and evening, and the skin color around the eyes can be obviously brightened in about 4 weeks. In eye cream products, it can be combined with moisturizing and repairing ingredients such as squalane and ceramide to form a highly moisturizing anti-aging eye cream, suitable for dry skin people to use in autumn and winter seasons, achieving anti-aging and brightening effects while moisturizing the eye area.